The Return

At the San Diego airport, July 15, 2013

It's now been over a month since Dad and I returned to San Diego from our Camino, and I'm still processing all that we experienced. As I realized after the last walk in 2011, the journey continues far beyond the completion. I'll continue making more ex-votos -- the heart, leg, arm, spine, stomach, bladder, breasts, uterus/ovaries, and kidney ex-votos that we left represented healing stories and ancient traditions. I'm also organizing PowerPoint presentations about the Camino and the art/architecture along the path. Dad will be volunteering again this fall for the San Diego State basketball team -- all the players are amazed he's walked on the Camino twice! He continues to inspire me with our walks around the neighborhood and on nearby trails.    

Over the course of this summer's trip, Dad and I had an ongoing conversation about the definition of a 'true pilgrim.' Perhaps the meaning can best be expressed through examples of 'Camino spirit' embodied by people we met  --

• Trekkers and Spanish/French locals who were always there to help us, such as Andre and Beatrice in France who guided us through a wheat field to reach Aroue after the path became unclear.
• Those who willingly shared their 'stories' at L'Esprit du Chemin refuge, including Americans Kip and Brook, who were walking with an openness to discovery, purpose, and healing. 
• The Basque gentleman Ignacio, who sang well wishes for all of us in Orisson before we departed.
• Walkers who could push onward despite pains and strains, such as Paulina from Australia who walked barefoot over the Napoleon Route from St. Jean when her blisters became unbearable.
• Pilgrims who walked the trail as 'healers,' such as Laura from England who worked on Dad's shin.
• Trekkers who had been walking on the Road for months, literally stepping out from their homes in Belgium, Ireland, etc. to reach Santiago.  

And lastly, people such as Jim Kaszynski, an American living in Thailand who works at an orphanage there and was walking to raise funds for one in Africa (jimscaminodesantiago.wordpress.com). Although Jim could manage only short distances each day, he walked every step to Santiago from St. Jean. Jim's 'true pilgrim spirit' personified the journey's rewards that continue long after the end.

Until next time, Ultreia & Buen Camino!

Final day in Paris

On our final day in Paris we ventured out to Versailles. Apparently every other tourist decided to do the same as throngs of people joined us! July 14 is also Bastille Day holiday, which added to the festivities.

Versailles is a grand and sweeping magnificence that never ends. The palace's gaudy elegance and the gardens' manicured acres simply astound the eyes.

Louis XIV greets visitors

Hundreds queue up, trying to stay cool in the heat

Photos from palace rooms:

The Hall of Mirrors

The view from my new summer residence (just kidding)

Puffs of plumes decorate the top corners of Louis' bed.

Royal seats by Marie Antoinette's bed

A Fragonard in the Hall of Battles

Photos from the gardens & grounds:

As far as the eyes can see --

Taking a break

Boat rentals on the 'pond'

Marie Antoinette's cottages

Goats by M.A.'s barn

Veggie garden

Ducks and fish vie for attention (and crumbs).

Lots of walking -- no problem for pilgrims!

By late afternoon the earlier crowd by the 'golden gate' entrance/exit had vanished.

After returning to the apartment for a fromage and baguette sandwich, we walked over at 10:30 to Sacre Coeur to watch Bastille Day fireworks. Although this vantage point sounded good, only a few sparkles in the distance could be seen.

The basilica stood out against the deep blue evening sky.

Tomorrow morning we fly from Paris to San Diego via JFK in New York. I'll post some concluding thoughts after returning, along with 'reshaping' and adding information in the weeks to come.

Until then, Au Revoir, Adios, & Buen Camino! 

Dad's birthday in Paris

To celebrate Dad's birthday, July 13, we spent a relaxing day in Montmartre. After purchasing tickets for Versailles tomorrow, we enjoyed a birthday lunch at a French bistro near the apartment. Seated on one side of us were French cousins whose grandfather had walked the Camino 4 times and written a book about his experiences. On the other side was an American group of women currently working in Germany -- one had lived in Poway (in the San Diego area).

The cafe was appropriately located on a street named "Albert."

After lunch we wandered through Montmartre, eventually stopping at the Musee de Montmartre, a 17th c. manor and the area's oldest building. Artists Auguste Renoir and Raoul Dufy, among others, had studios here. Work by Toulouse-Lautrec and Modigliani was also featured.

At the Musee a resident black cat sat on a window sill. The cat looked similar to 'chat noir' images seen in Montmartre prints from the 19th c. (below, upper right).

Adjacent to the Musee is a vineyard -- grapes are harvested in the fall, and the wine made is auctioned off for charity.

Images from our walk:

Pretty in Pink

Say cheese

          

A whimsical window display

The famous Moulin Rouge -- a bit touristy but Dad wanted to see this building, especially after reading about its history at the Musee.

The day's celebration ended with a bite at a cafe & then stopping at a market to get snacks for tomorrow & Monday, our departure date.

Happy birthday Dad! It was fun to celebrate with you in Paris!

Santiago to Paris

July 11: The last day in Santiago

In the morning we stopped by the Pilgrims' Office to say "hi" to Johnnie Walker, a Scottish pilgrim who lives in Santiago and organizes the office's 'welcome' greeters. This group of volunteers helps to answer questions, award Compostelas, and listen to walkers' stories of their journey. I know Johnnie from pilgrim forums and his Camino blog.

French bulldogs in Spain

There was an evening concert at Plaza de Quintana adjacent to the Cathedral.

July 12: Bonjour, Frances!

On the flight to Paris today there were other walkers, including Carol, a psychology professor from S. Africa who walked from St. Jean to Santiago, and Johnny from Sacramento, who will soon start medical school. We met Carol at the Pilgrims' Mass in Santiago and Johnny on the first day back in Navarrenx. He had walked part of the Le Puy route last year, and this year completed the trek to Santiago & Finisterre. He's also a basketball fan, so Dad was excited to talk hoops with him.

In Paris we stayed at an airbnb apartment located in Montmartre near the Sacre-Coeur Basilica (Sacred Heart Basilica). The apartment is owned by Jeff Russell, an American who lives in Paris. Jeff had bicycled Camino del Norte and the Portugese route, and his mom had walked Camino Frances. He's a photographer & documentary filmmaker who records areas of conflict, including Iraq, and recently spent time in San Diego where he met with Iraqi refugees who have resettled in the U.S. 

Streets not far from the apartment and on the way to Sacre-Coeur

Climbing up to the basilica

Montmartre's many stairs offer good Camino conditioning.

Ode to painter Wayne Thiebaud at the boulangerie/patisserie below the apartment

The bakery had lots of French bread besides pastries of course!

Cafe chanteuse

Sacre-Coeur

Neighborhood cafes were full of locals and tourists savoring a summer evening.