Leon

Today's walk into Leon went smoothly. Although the distance equalled what we walked yesterday, our strategy to beat the heat was better. We got an earlier start & arrived to Leon by noon before the hot afternoon temps.

Puente on the outskirts of Leon

Several cemeteries were in the outlying suburbs. 

Amanda, "Amando"

An urban fourplex

The festival of Fiestas de San Juan y San Pedro takes place in Leon the last part of June. Neighborhoods celebrate with street shrines.

The city's name is derived from its position as a military station for the Roman 'Legion' -- not its connection to lions ("leon" is Spanish for lions). However, Leon uses this animal as an insignia that can be seen in various imagery around the city.

The Collegiate Church of San Isidoro has fabulous 12th c. frescoes "in situ," or artwork painted in its original place -- no photos were allowed inside, so I couldn't record this 'must see' art historical site.

Regal stork digs near San Isidoro

Yet another charming calle on the way to the cathedral

On the Catedral de Leon's mullion, or the middle column of the central portal, is the Virgen Blanca holding the Christ child. Their hands give the sign of the benediction, or blessing. Christ also holds an orb, a symbol that represents rule over the world.

A stork takes off from a Cathedral peak.

"Keys, Shoemaker, Grinder; Specialist, Repair, Cutlery; Super Fast; Serigraphy T-Shirts"

Sweet treats were in order after sightseeing.

Dinner was at a local cafe, where we sat outside to enjoy the warm evening and to watch people 'promenade' along the street. 

  

Mansilla de las Mulas

The heat descended on the Meseta in full force today, June 29. We set out without food (limited tienda in El Burgo Ranero) and unfortunately were not prepared for the long walk to our destination, Mansilla de las Mulas. Over three and a half hours later we arrived to the only break stop, Reliegos, and refreshed our weary selves, as did other walkers.

Trees lined the path for miles and offered a little 

shade from the morning sun.

Dad and Mannfried cooled off with cold bier.

From Reliegos, we opted to walk to Mansilla on the "Romano" path, or the old Roman road, an alternative trail that was longer than the main route. On the way towards the Romano path we passed by "Bar Elvis" and a cluster of bodegas, which looked like 'hobbit homes.'

The Romano path, although very historical, had no shade, and the temperature continued to soar. The heat and Dad's shin pain proved to be too much, so we hitched a ride from a truck for the last couple miles into Mansilla.

Our albergue was a peaceful retreat with a lovely courtyard. While Dad relaxed with some ice and a cool drink, I explored the town, one of my favorites visited on the Meseta.

Door knocker

High rise duplex

Remains of the medieval wall that had surrounded the town

Cafes and shops near the albergue

Later we had dinner with Graham and Laura. In the afternoon Laura helped treat Dad's shin splint -- she's a healer with a background in medicine. Dad's leg felt better afterwards!


  

El Burgo Ranero

An early morning chill prompted us to wear layers as we left Sahagun for El Burgo Ranero. A young walker from Minnesota, Liz, walked with us for a while. She's walking the Camino before her return to the states after teaching English in Thailand and studying abroad in Spain.

A local artist's work

The landscape rolled gently, and patches of untilled dirt was interspersed with green fields. Hand painted Camino signage and rocks marked the path. 

This particular wild flower has appeared on the path for several days. 

At a morning bar break we met English walkers Graham and Laura, who had walked part of Camino Frances last year.

The open doors of Ermita de Virgen Perales -- the caretaker stamped our credentials.

Pilgrim memorial next to the path

An iron fence whimsically honors the Road.

It was getting warmer the last few kilometers into El Burgo Ranero, so we were glad to be near our destination.

We dubbed this water tower the "Leaning Tower of El Burgo Ranero"

Storks always have prime realty.

Our municipal albergue is an adobe building, which are common to this region. It's named after Domenico Laffi, a 17th c. Italian priest who traveled to Santiago 3 times & then wrote about his journeys. 

Old wood ceiling and adobe brick wall exposed

Close-up of the wall's mud and straw composition

La cena (dinner) with Graham and Laura