Sahagun

This morning, June 27th, we left Peaceable Kingdom for Sahagun, which is the 1/2 way point of Camino Frances. Paddy & the pups walked with us to where the Road continued onward from Moratinos.

I'm standing by a marker for Palencia, the province we've been walking in for the past few days. Sahagun can be seen in the distance from here. Dad took this photo especially for my cuz Wendy. 

Dad and I posed outside Sahagun by one of the halfway markers of Camino Frances. There's also a "halfway certificate" available at Santuario de la Peregrina in town.  

 

Our albergue in Sahagun was the upstairs loft of Iglesia de la Trinidad. Downstairs was a tourist information center.

Dad rested while I strolled the city.

Close-up of brickwork

Stork penthouse

Arco de San Benito was the facade of what was once a major monastery, Monasterio Real de San Benito, with origins in the 9th c. The arch includes heraldry, or a coat of arms, at the top that reflects the Hapsburg dynasty, which ruled Spain during the 16th & 17th c.

Scrolls on the ruins of the monastery -- it was destroyed by 2 fires in the 18th c.

Semicircular arches of 12th c. Iglesia de San Tirso in the Mudejar style, a blend of Moorish and Romanesque architecture.

These religious 'floats' are carved "pasos," or statues used for Holy Week procession portraying the Passion. They're part of a 500 year old tradition and will be carried by volunteers through the streets. Different groups bid on who carries particular figures.

For supper, many pilgrims cooked. We ate quiche that Rebekah from Peaceable Kingdom sent with us.

Dad shared wine with Brendon, an Australian musician and teacher heading to Ireland to perform after his Camino journey.

Eating paella made by Spanish peregrinas

On the outskirts of Sahagun by a Roman bridge stands the 12th c. Ermita Virgen del Puente ("Our Lady of the Bridge"), a little Romanesque chapel that originally served as a pilgrim hospice.

This tiny ermita reminded me of the Harbert, Michigan Community Church attended by Mom's family. They were special members -- Grandpa Victor built the original building and Grandma Amanda played piano. Aunt Arlene played the organ at the Harbert church for over 45 years. Dad and I kept Aunt Arlene in our thoughts today, June 27th, which is the 3 year date of her passing. 

Caldadilla de la Cueza and the Peaceable Kingdom in Moratinos

Tuesday June 25th we walked to the village of Caldadilla de la Cueza. The wind was blowing from behind and helped us with our stride to this 'hardscrabble' pilgrim village. Once there, we settled into the albergue and ate dinner at the only restaurant in town. Dutch and German walkers joined us, including Claus, a Hamburg computer businessman whose daughter plays basketball, and a couple from Holland who were riding their bikes to Santiago from Rotterdam.

Pilgrim friends sip cervezas.

A Deutsch walker played harmonica while Spanish trekkers accompanied him with song.

The Meseta is known for bodegas, or wine cellar storage 'hobbit homes' built into the earth.  

Wednesday morning we walked to Moratinos to the home of Rebekah Scott and Patrick 'Paddy' O'Gara, who moved to Spain in 2006 from Toledo, Ohio, where they worked at the Toledo Blade newspaper. I knew Rebekah from pilgrim forums and had followed her blog, Big Fun in a Tiny Pueblo.

They open their home, called the "Peaceable Kingdom," to pilgrims and also to animals, now numbering 5 dogs, 2 cats, and chickens. Peaceable Kingdom references the well known 19th c. painting by American artist Edward Hicks. 

Dad helped Paddy place a 'book exchange' box at the local church. Parishoners and pilgrims were welcome to take or exchange a good read.

Rebekah and Paddy showed us their bodega, which included old wine barrels. 

Afterwards we ate lunch at a bodega restaurant & then rested at the 'Peaceable' casa, an old adobe Rebekah & Paddy have renovated. There's a charming patio where people & pups can enjoy the sunshine. Later Rebekah served quiche, spinach salad, homemade bread, & gazpacho; Paddy cut melon slices for dessert. 

Our stay at the Peaceable Kingdom with Rebekah, Paddy, and furry friends was a Camino highlight!

Carrion de los Condes

We left Fromista in early morning sunshine for the town of Carrion de los Condes. One stretch of the route followed the main road and included double markers -- something not seen before in other regions. We thought they might be there to keep motor vehicles off the path.

Eventually the path split into two options -- we chose the longer, alternative one that followed a river. Sounds of birds and frogs added to the serene environment. The ubiquitous poppies were in abundance along with other colorful flowers.

Standing alone amidst fields of grain was the Ermita de la Virgen del Rio (Hermitage of Our Lady of the River) with a fuente on the grounds.

The alternative, 'road less traveled' path connected to the main road at Villalcazar de Sirga, where the 13th c. Knights Templar church of Santa Maria la Virgen Blanca is located. It's a fortress-like edifice with tombs of nobles and royalty. The altar retablo depicting the Virgin's life was particularly beautiful.

In Carrion de los Condes our stay at the Santa Maria parish albergue was a Meseta highlight. The albergue is run by Augustinian nuns. Sister Monique greeted us with cups of tea. 

In the evening there was a Vespers service and then a musical presentation. Everyone was invited to sing along and also share musical talent with instruments. Before the music began each of us told our name, nationality, and why we were walking the Camino. 

The mass afterwards included more music plus a blessing. Paper stars (estrellas) crafted by the Sisters were given to walkers.