Tuesday, July 2, 2013

A rest in Santiago

                                      

Santiago is a beautiful historic city, and it was rejuvenating to have a rest day here before our walk to Negreira tomorrow. This morning we moved over to our accommodations for tonight, the 16th c. Hospedaria San Martin Pinaria Seminario Mayor. It had been a pilgrim hospice connected to a monastery but now is a hotel with a floor for walkers. The structure is a stone's throw away from the Cathedral. Our 'pilgrim rate' room is basic but includes a bathroom & even towels, a real luxury! 




San Martin Pinario's breakfast room -- cool arched ceiling


Hallway to reception desk -- imagine monks strolling these stone floors centuries ago!

Located not far from the hotel is the Museum of Pilgrimage & Santiago. On display were items related to medieval pilgrimage, including a pilgrim ampulla. Ampullae were used to carry holy water or water from a miraculous spring. Studies of these objects intersect research on ex-votos -- both served as healing objects.


There was a medieval pilgrim hat on display too. 


At noon we went to the pilgrims' Mass at Santiago's cathedral, Catedral de Santiago de Compostela, and as luck would have it, the giant incense burner, the "Botafumeiro," swung. It's a magnificent spectacle to behold. The same sister we heard sing 2 years ago led the ceremony with "Hymn to the Apostle."



Below are images around the city I took while Dad caught up with news on the iPad: 


These are commemorative plaques located in the center of Obradoiro Plaza in front of the Cathedral. Pilgrims lie on them to celebrate their journeys' end. The top one designates the Camino as the 1st European Cultural Itinerary that was awarded in 1987. The bottom one commemorates the Holy Year in 2004. The Holy Year is when St. James' feast day, July 25th, falls on a Sunday.






Looking out to Obradoiro Plaza through the Renaissance gate by the Cathedral's west entrance.


West portal lion knockers
                                                                                    

View of the Cathedral's Romanesque barrel arches      


St. James standing tall atop the Cathedral


Sticks with shells & gourds are available at many shops by the Cathedral.


Arriving pilgrims


A group of Spanish women singing and dancing 
in time with bagpipers by Obradoiro Plaza


A team celebrating in the plaza 


Celtic music, a Galician tradition, can be heard 
around lots of corners.


Plaza de Platerias features a 1759 fountain with horses spouting water and an angel on top who holds the star of St. James. 

The magnificent Cathedral -- begun in the 11th-12th c. & added to in the 16th-18th c. Its Baroque facade has captivated pilgrims for centuries. 



Dad and I enjoyed dinner at San Martin Pinario -- we were the first ones there at 8:00 p.m. when the comedor opened (typically early Americans!)



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